Estancia El Colibri

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Estancia El Colibri

Style: Contemporary Classic

Atmosphere: Quiet

9 Rooms

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Since the devaluation of the peso in 2001, Argentina’s struggling economy has depended on visitors eager to order juicy steaks, learn the tango, even glimpse a real gaucho or two. These days the countryside has no shortage of estancias, ranches where guests can gallop around on thoroughbreds and experience a slice of rural life in the Pampas. Most are mom-and-pop affairs where the same guy who mucks out the horses’ stalls serves afternoon tea on the terrace — with the exception of a few upscale options like the Estancia El Colibrí, in the northern province of Cordoba. From the smooth cotton sheets and high-speed internet to the extensive wine cellar and the chefs’ starched white hats, El Colibrí’s a step up from Argentina’s conventionally quaint country retreats.

In other words, the sprawling estate retains all the traditions of the more rustic estancias, but on a grander scale. The nine suites and rooms have hardwood floors and four-poster beds, yes, but with ceilings two stories high, satellite television, DVD players, and fireplaces. The grounds are lush and green and the stables are filled with healthy horses, of course, but at El Colibrí, the space between the colonial-style guesthouse and the nearby mountains is occupied by a wide, beautifully maintained swimming pool. The traditional lunch of chorizo and empanadas gets a gourmet twist and is served on elegant white linen under shady trees — needless to say, the Malbec from Mendoza isn’t tough to swallow, either. The refined library and living room (with attached bar) is a pleasantly cozy locale to while away a country evening with a good book. Nights tend to the quiet side, after days on horseback, on bikes, or at the polo fields — but as the proprietors know, there’s something to be said for quiet luxury.

How to get there:

Córdoba International Airport is approximately a 1 1/4 hour flight from Buenos Aires or Santiago de Chile. Estancia El Colibri is a 45 minute drive from Córdoba International Airport.