Estrela d'Agua

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Style: Contemporary Classic

Atmosphere: Quiet

28 Rooms

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If you’ve been disappointed by the beaches in Rio or São Paulo, this is more like it — Trancoso, on the Bahian coast, is the kind of rustic, historic town you always wanted to see by the seaside, and the beaches are unspoiled and undeveloped, just the sort of thing you leave town for in the first place. Trancoso has a couple of very fine hotels as well, which in their small size and intimacy are the dead opposite of what you’re used to in Rio; among them is the Pousada Estrela d’Agua, a one-time private residence that’s now a 28-room seaside escape.

The style is nothing to call the design magazines about, and maybe that’s as it should be — you come to the Bahian seaside to escape from urban concerns, and to commune with nature, not with furniture. That said, the Estrela d’Agua’s rustic décor is nothing if not calming, and you’ll find all the comforts of home, plus, in the master suites, luxe extras like outdoor jacuzzis or private plunge pools. There’s a gym and a restaurant, and spa services are available on site, but it’s not the kind of place where you have to barricade yourself in — Trancoso, though small, is a lively town, with plenty of sights to see and a surprising wealth of good restaurants.